INTRODUCTION

Preparing for cold weather landscape photography can be very time consuming but it’s essential you have the right gear or you’re not going to be happy with the results. Landscape gear wise it’s almost the same as any destination. Clothing wise, it’s very different. Shaking in the cold is not an ideal scenario for shooting and you won’t be thinking about your shot with a clear head. And you really don’t want to be spending all your money to these exotic or remote locations and end up catching pneumonia because you didn’t prepare. I have several cold weather trips coming up in 2013 and 2014 ranging from 30°F (-1°C) Yosemite and Kathmandu like back country weather to -15°F (-26°C) Iceland and Alaska like arctic weather. Here’s a guide that will help you prepare and you might want to add a few of these things to your packing list. All the gear on this page is stuff I actually use and can vouch for. If you want a detailed review on any piece of gear, just leave a comment below. I’ll break this article down into 2 main sections:

PART 1: Cold Weather Photography Gear
PART 2: Cold Weather Clothing For Photography

So let’s get started!

PART 1: COLD WEATHER PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR

1. A heavy tripod. I usually use a FEISOL Travel Rapid Tripod CT-3441T when I travel. It’s lightweight carbon fiber, easily fits in your luggage, comes with a carrying case, and is designed for taller photographers do you don’t have to hunch over when shooting and kill your back. Carbon fiber is great because it minimizes vibration. The biggest thing that will get you with tripods in cold windy weather is flexing and torsion. I can say confidently the CT-3441T though smaller and lighter than other carbon fiber tripods is able to handle wind much better than them because it is so rigid.

These tripod legs are good but because it’s so lightweight at 2.4 lbs, it will move in really heavy wind even using your camera bag as weight hooked to the center column. You want to get a heavier tripod if you can like the Feisol Elite CT-3472LV Rapid 4-Section Carbon Fiber Tripod with Leveling Center Column which is 5.05 lbs. Feisol has an excellent comparison guide of all their tripods here: http://www.feisol.net/product_comparison/FEISOL_product_comparison_tripods.pdf

If Feisol is too expensive (most carbon fiber legs like Feisol, Gitzo, etc are), stick with aluminum. The trusty Manfrotto MT055XPRO3 055 Aluminium 3-Section Tripod with Horizontal Column is probably one of the most popular aluminum pro level tripod legs in the world and weigh a solid 5.3 lbs. The big problem with metal tripods is that if you touch them freezing weather barehanded you might stick to it which can get very painful.

A quick warning on air travel with tripods. The TSA will consider tripods a weapon (can be used a club I guess) and it is at the discretion of the TSA agent to permit them aboard in your carry-on luggage. I don’t want the fate of my trip left up to a TSA agent having a bad day or not so I always keep the legs in my checked in bag and keep the ball head in my carry on. I can always (hopefully) find legs at my destination if my bags are ever lost.

2. Tripod spikes. You need these so your tripod can stick into the snow and ice and not slide around. I use the Feisol SP-LO Long Spikes on my tripods. You get 3 of them and you just pop off the rubber endcaps on your tripod legs and screw these in when you need them. I travel with these in my checked luggage since they can be considered a weapon.

3. A good Arca Swiss compatible ballhead. I use the Markins Q3T on my CT-3441T because of the quick detach lever but for a heavier tripod, you’ll want a bigger ballhead for more stability. The Feisol CB-50DC Carbon Fiber Ball Head with Release Plate QP-144750 is an excellent choice for the CT-3472LV. Here’s a very nice video review of this exact setup by Adam Lerner: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zYW28-U7Fs

4. L-bracket. Absolutely necessary for landscape photography. I use a gripped 5D Mark III for landscape work primarily and use a Kirk Enterprises L-Bracket. Really Right Stuff makes popular L brackets too. Both companies make them for regular and gripped bodies. If you’re taking a 70-200 with you, both Kirk and RRS make an Arca Swiss compatible quick release lens plate that fits your tripod ring for both Canon and Nikon and I highly recommend keeping one of these plates in your bag. Don’t try and use your tripod with an L bracket with a 70-200 attached, it will be too front heavy and tip the whole tripod over. The tripod ring plate is the way to go to keep the weight distributed. Also get a cheap regular Arca Swiss plate just in case too. It’s small and doesn’t take up any room in your bag. If something happens to your L-bracket, you want some kind of backup to continue shooting. I really like the Arca-Type Quick Release Plate. Very solid and dirt cheap. I even use it on my camcorder and point and shoots sometimes so it’s been a very worthwhile investment. Always keep your allen wrenches for your plates in your checked in bag. I’ve heard several stories of TSA agents confiscating allen wrenches saying they can be used as weapons (yeah, really).

5. Spare body. I’m not saying it’s a must have but if you’re spending a ton of money and resources to get to your location and your body fails, what are you going to do? I highly recommend taking a spare body with you. I can’t tell you exactly what to get, this depends on your budget. A full frame body is ideal for landscapes. If you plan to shoot the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), you’ll want a camera with a high dynamic range for the least amount of noise. Weather sealed cameras are best because there will be a lot of water spray, slushy rain, and snow flurries to watch out for. For Canon shooters, a Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 6D, or the older Canon 5D Mark II would be ideal. For Nikon shooters my friend swears by his Nikon D800 for landscape work or you can get the Nikon D600.

All these I’ve mentioned are entry level for the full frame segment. If you really want to go all out for a spare body, Canon has the 1DX and Nikon has the D4 and D3x. You don’t really have to spend that kind of money for a spare body. A cheaper crop sensor camera would work just fine as well. I’ve shot plenty of landscapes using a 7D and the APS-C sensor. If you’re doing a lot of nature, the APS-C sensor is excellent paired with a 70-200 lens because of the crop factor. More pixel density.

6. Filters. You can choose screw on filters that just screw right on to the end of your lens or front filters which are usually a 4″x6″ sheet of glass or plastic (about the size of a postcard) that you place in front of your lens. Usually there is a filter holder that screws onto the front of your lens for these. Most people start off with screw on filters because they are usually cheaper and aren’t complex. If you go with screw on filters, different lens have different filter sizes so buy the biggest filter you can and use step down adapters for your smaller lenses. You don’t have to worry about size for front filters, they will work on all your lenses.

The 3 major types of filters you’ll use for landscape photography are polarizing, neutral density (ND), and graduated neutral density (GND).

–Polarizing filters eliminate glare and reflections (same effect as wearing polarized sunglasses). Water, sky, ice etc. will look a little more saturated when you use one.

–Neutral Density filters reduce the amount of light hitting your camera’s sensor so you can do longer exposures outdoors. This helps smooth movement. They have different levels of light blocking ability measured in f-stops but different manufacturers use different methods to describe this. Typically:

-1 f-stop reduction = 2x = .3 ND
-2 f-stop reduction = 4x = .6 ND
-3 f-stop reduction = 8x = .9 ND
-4 f-stop reduction = 16x = 1.2 ND
-5 f-stop reduction = 32x = 1.5 ND
-6 f-stop reduction = 64x = 1.8 ND
-7 f-stop reduction = 128x = 2.1 ND
-8 f-stop reduction = 256x = 2.4 ND
-9 f-stop reduction = 512x = 2.7 ND
-10 f-stop reduction = 1000x = 3 ND

–Graduated Neutral Density filters are similar to regular neutral density filters except only a portion of the filter has light blocking ability. These are great when you want to stop down the sky but keep the landscape lit. You can get really creative with these kinds of filters. There are 3 major types of blending on these: soft edge, hard edge, and radial. Soft edge is a very soft transition from light to dark, great for things like tree lines and mountains. Hard edge is a very abrupt transition from light to dark, great for things like seascapes. Radial is dark in the center and light in the corners and edges so it gives you a nice vignetting effect if that’s what you’re going for. If you could only pick one, go with the soft edge. They are far more forgiving than the other two.

For cold weather photography (mountain, ice, snow, glaciers, water, etc.) you’ll want a combination of these 3 types filters. For screw on filters I use B+W and for front filters I use Lee. There are many brands out there but this is just what works for me. The amount of light blocking depends on your style of shooting. My current filter kit consists of the following:

Screw on (**NOTE: For Canon stay away from 77mm. All their newer lenses are using 82mm now including the upcoming 14-24 f/2.8L and 16-50 f/4L IS. Get 82mm filters and use adapters for smaller lenses.):
B+W 82mm Kaesemann Circular Polarizer with Multi-Resistant Coating
B+W 77mm ND 3.0-1,000X with Single Coating (110)

Front filter mounting hardware:
Lee Filters Foundation Kit / Filter Holder
Lee Filters 77 W/A Adapter Ring
Lee Filters 82 Adapter Ring

Front filters:
I don’t want to list a bunch of expensive Lee filters and have you come back and yell at me because they don’t work for your style of shooting. You can quickly go down the rabbit hole trying different filters. I suggest going to Lee’s website and reading about the different types they have. Choose what you think will work for you. Check out their Neutral Density, Big Stopper, and Polarizer sections.

7. 2nd charger. Always have a 2nd charger available for your camera. Your camera will be eating batteries in the cold and you will constantly be charging. I use the STK Canon LP-E6 Battery Charger for my LP-E6 batteries. I always use OEM batteries in my cameras. You never want to cheap out on batteries for a camera worth thousands of dollars. But the chargers don’t have to be.

8. Cable release or wireless controller. Any vibration or movements you introduce is critical in landscape photography so you have to be completely hands off after setting up your shot. Even trying to use the built-in 2 second timer and hitting the shutter button manually can move your camera body, filters, or even the whole tripod ever so slightly. I use the Canon RC-6 Wireless Remote Controller most of the time but if the batteries die, I have the SMDV Remote Shutter Release Cable as a backup.

9. A screen loupe/hood loupe. Absolutely essential for any kind of outdoor photography. The sun pretty much washes out any color LCD in existence no matter how good it is. This little houde loupe allows you to view the LCD as if you were indoors. I love my Hoodman HoodLoupe. Use it once and you’ll never go outside without it again. I’ve always got this little guy hanging around my neck. Checking sharpness (especially when using manual focus only lenses) has never been easier.

10. Rainsleeve. The OP/TECH USA Rainsleeve is super cheap and great for rain, mist, sand, and anything else nature throws at you. And you get two of them!

11. Glove friendly cleaning tools. Sure a microfiber cloth is great for lenses in normal weather but wearing mittens and fighting cold and wind you probably won’t have much luck with it where you’re going. Throw a LensPen NLP-1 and Giottos AA1900 Large Rocket Air Blaster in your bag. The LensPen has a brush on one end to brush away debri and padded end with some kind of magical non-liquid cleaning compound. I don’t know how it works but it works. The Giottos Air Blaster allows you to blow away debri without having to touch and potentially smudge anything and it’s also nice if you get anything blown onto your mirror. A warning on the Air Blaster, there have been some stories of the TSA confiscating them in carry-on baggage because they look like a grenade. I always keep it in my checked in bag for this reason.

12. Sensor swabs. I use the Photosol Sensor Swab ULTRA when I need to clean my sensor in the field. If you’re at home it’s more cost effective to get the Digital Survival Kit Sensor Swab Type 3 w/ Eclipse Cleaner which will come with a little bottle of the Eclipse cleaning solution. There are type 1, 2, and 3 versions so make sure you choose the right type for your camera sensor. They have a comparison chart available here: http://photosolcart.com/swab-sizes/. The little packets are fine but don’t try and take a bottle of Eclipse solution in your carry on bag because it is flammable.

13. Microfiber towel. Notice I said towel, not a small cloth. You want something like theSea to Summit DryLite towel which comes in 4 colors and 5 sizes with the smallest XS size being 12” x 24″. You’ll constantly be wiping down your gear, tripod, lenses, filters, face, whatever because there will be plenty of moisture around. Especially if you’re doing seascapes or get stuck in a snow flurry. Get the size you think you’ll need for multi-use scenarios. I have friends that use a synthetic chamois but I’ve always been hesitant since they will get kind of stiff in really cold weather. I might pick one up this season just to see which works better for me.

14. Ziploc bags. Condensation buildup is something you have to worry about when moving from a cold environment to a warm environment suddenly, like going indoors. Always keep your body and lenses in Ziploc Freezer Bags when inside your camera bag. Once I move indoors, I don’t open my camera bag for an hour or so just to let it acclimate to the warmer temperatures. Having water in your gear can cause damage to the electronics and fungus to grow inside, two things you don’t want to deal with on an expensive trip. Having your gear in ziploc bags keeps a pocket of cold air around your gear that slowly warms up and minimizes condensation. I use gallon bags but Ziploc Big Bag Double Zipper bags are available if you have really big telephoto lenses.

15. Silica gel packs. I keep several Silica Gel Desiccant Dry-Pack Packets in the bottom of all my camera bags. This helps absorb any moisture and condensation that might get into the bag.

16. Tripod leg covers from Ben. I use these when I’m on the beach when I’m in the water or in really fine sand. In cold weather, these are only necessary if you plan on sticking your legs in the water. You don’t want any sand, mud, or grit getting stuck in the knurls and locks of your legs because it’s a pain to disassemble and clean. At $15 for a set they’re a good investment and folded up plastic doesn’t take up any room in your bag. Get them at http://tripodcovers.com/index.html

17. LED flashlight. I like Streamlight over SureFire having had several models of both. The Streamlight 88850 Polytac LED Flashlight is extremely light weight and very bright. I own 7 of these now and have them stashed all over the place. They come in 4 colors: black, coyote, OD green, and bright yellow. Most of mine are black or coyote but I have one in yellow and I love it because it really stands out in your bag. I highly recommend getting the Streamlight 69115 Red Flip Lens because when you’re shooting at night, you don’t want a big bright light like this blinding you and having you see stars for a few minutes. The red filter will keep your night vision intact. Same reason why most desk clocks are red, they won’t impair your night vision.

18. LED head lamp. Again I went with Streamlight on this one and use the Streamlight 61302 Argo HP C4 LED Headmount Flashlight. Comes in very handy when you need both your hands. I own the black but it also comes in yellow.

19. Bungee cords, velcro, gaffers tape, and carabiners. I have a container of Master Lock 3023AT Assorted Bungee Cords, 24-Pack and I grab a few of these and keep them in my bag just incase. One of them is in my tripod bag at all times that I use to bungee cord the center column hook of my tripod to my camera bag for added stability in the wind.

I like to keep VELCRO ONE-WRAP Cable Management Thin Self-Gripping Reusable Cable Ties with me as well. Don’t take the whole role, just a few go a long way.

Gaffers Tape. Every phtographer knows how handy this stuff can be. I keep a 30yd roll in my checked in bag. It takes up too much room in my camera bag but I like knowing if I need it it’s not too far away from me.

Lastly, carabiners. Get something like the Nite Ize S-Biner Dual Spring Gate Carabiners 3-Pack. I’ve been using Nite Ize S-Biners for years because they are really easy to clip on and off and don’t pinch your fingers like some other brands do. I use them for all kinds of purposes like hanging nalgene bottles, filters cases, sunglass cases, etc. off my camera bag while shooting. They come in 6 different sizes so get an assorted pack or individual sizes. I find myself using the #3 size the most.

20. Filter holder. For circular screw on filters, I use the Tiffen 4BLTPCHLGK Large Belt Style Filter Pouch for Filters 62mm to 82mm which is really compact. For Lee filters, I use the Lowepro S&F Filter Pouch 100. It keeps my filters, foundation kit, and adapter rings all in one place. Sometimes I strap it to my belt, other times just to the outside of my camera bag. Very versatile mounting options.

21. Camera strap system. I used to use the very trusty Black Rapid RS-7 Camera Strap with the BlackRapid RMA-10B BRAD but have recently switched to the Black Rapid Yeti Dual Camera Sling Strap now. The Yeti has improvements for stability over the RS-7 like the rubber shoulder padding and BRAD system that isn’t an afterthought and these are really worth it and when you carry just one body. It can basically be configured the same as an RS Sport but with the added stability improvements and the ability to carry 2 bodies when you need to. It’s almost a no brainer to get the Yeti if you’re looking at these kinds of straps. You might be wondering why you need a strap if you’re going to be shooting off of a tripod. Well when you’re trying to get over rough terrain and setup your shot, you don’t want your big heavy DSLR hanging off the end of the tripod. You setup your shot and your tripod first, then clamp the camera into your Arca Swiss ballhead. Until then it should be in your bag or attached to you via a strap. In particularly windy or seascape situations when I’m in the water, I have the strap around me even when my DSLR is on the tripod just in case a wave tries to topple my whole rig. When I use an L bracket, I have a my BlackRapid strap with Black Rapid FastenR-3 screwed into my Kirk 1″ Standard Quick Release Clamp for Arca-style Plates and Mount which is clamped to the L bracket. Very easy transition from strap to tripod.

Both these BlackRapid strap systems are really meant for city photography. I have found even though the cameras are fairly secure to my body, they still tend to spin around and get in the way when I’m climbing around. I needed something ultra secure and the closest thing I have found is the Cotton Carrier 122 CPF-5940 Camera Vest System Pro-Pac. This is a very modularized system for outdoor or active photographers (Shooting while on a bike, skis, etc). It also comes with a tripod adapter plate so you can use it with your L bracket and Arca Swiss ballhead without every having to unscrew anything in the field. The link above is to the full setup for 2 DSLRs but if you need just 1 DSLR, get the single setup on Amazon which is a bit cheaper. Their website (www.cottoncarrier.com) is very informative and they have put out some pretty good Youtube videos going over the system. I bought the 2 DSLR setup above but have not used it in the field yet. From my testing in the city it looks like it’s going to be a winner. Camera goes from my chest to the tripod in seconds and then I release the tether going to the vest off of the camera. Very well thought out design.

22. USB 3.0 CF card reader. Love this Kingston USB 3.0 Memory Card Reader. It’s metal so it can take a beating. It is very fast.

23. CF card holder. I use the Think Tank Photo Pixel Pocket Rocket and love it. I usually have it attached to my belt loop and sits inside my pocket with very little bulk. The material is nylon but it is not sealed on the sides so water can potentially get in. Make sure you keep it in your camera bag or inside one of the layers of your jacket that you know will stay very dry if you’re shooting in the cold.

24. USB 3.0 External travel size hard drive. I keep a WD My Passport 2TB Portable External USB 3.0 Hard Drive in my bag when I travel. Usually at the end of the day I transfer my images to my laptop for processing and then I take an additional backup to this external hard drive just in case. The USB 3.0 makes a big difference when copying, it’s super fast. It’s currently available in 1 TB, 1.5 TB, and 2 TB sizes in black, blue, red, silver, and white. I went for the blue because it stands out in my bag and matches my Think Tank Photo Pixel Pocket Rocket.

25. USB 3.0 flash drive. When you’re out with a group of other friends or even other photographers and want to share files. It’s nicer to have a tiny little solid state drive with no moving parts than handing over your external drive with tons and tons of your data on it. I like the SanDisk Extreme CZ80 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive. It comes in 16 GB, 32 GB, and 64 GB models. Transfer speeds up to 190 MB/s so RAW files will fly over.

26. Portable WiFi access point. These aren’t really necessary but if you do research ahead of time on the lodge, hotel, inn, cottage, whatever you’ll be staying at you might find out the WiFi has horrible coverage or they charge for it (while keeping regular wired in room access free). At lots of places WiFi access points are overloaded or have dead spots because their range is ineffective and there are a ton of people connected to them maxing them out. But often times the regular network port in the wall or desk of your hotel is not overloaded since it’s hardwired. You can plug a network cable from that port right into one of these Apple AirPort Extreme Base Stations and instantly create your own private WiFi hot spot with a strong signal for all your devices. The other option is a wired approach. You can get a small cheap portable switch like the TP-LINK 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D) and share the one wall port with many laptops. But stuff without Ethernet ports like iPads, cell phones, etc. will still require some kind of WiFi access point to be connected to one of these Ethernet ports to get online.

27. Camera backpack. Don’t get a roller, you won’t make it over terrain. I needed something that doesn’t scream camera bag, weather proof, able to carry a laptop, comfortable shoulder and waist straps, and able to hook stuff to it on the outside. I love ThinkTank bags but they are more for urban work. I usually use a Think Tank Photo Airport Security V 2.0 when I travel but it won’t do for trekking through ice and wet snow. Lowepro makes some great outdoor camera backpacks like the Lowepro Pro Trekker 450 AW Camera Backpack. I already own a Lowepro Pro Runner 350 AW DSLR Backpack and it has a really nice built-in rain cover so that’s what I use. The AW stands for “All Weather”. You can can get it with or without wheels. I prefer without wheels because I don’t want to get stuck having to check in the bag at airports. The wheels make it look like a carry on while the version without the wheels makes it look like a standard backpack so very little chance of getting asked to check it in. TIP: stuff the waist belts inside to make it look less bulky when you’re traveling to your destination.

I also recommend getting a bottle of Rust-Oleum NeverWet hydrophobic spray from Home Depot and waterproofing your bag. I’ve done this on my Lowepro Pro Trekker 450 AW but just be careful because on dark items it will give it a milky white haze. I tested it using a garden hose and was amazed how well this product works. We’ll see how long it lasts. If you don’t want to go this route and nee a completely waterproof bag (without messing with covers) that can even float, there is the Lowepro DryZone 200 Camera Backpack and the smaller Lowepro DryZone 100 Camera Backpack (Yellow) which have been getting good reviews but I have no experience with them so I can’t personally recommend these.

28. If you choose to get a backpack and not a roller, there will be times when your back will ache and you feel like flying all the way back home and getting your trusty Think Tank Photo Airport Security V 2.0 (you can tell I speak from experience). If you have room in your checked in luggage, pack one of these Travel Smart Multi-Use Carts. I cannot tell you how much I love this thing. Dirt cheap and folds down to nothing. Weighs just 3.7 lbs and is super sturdy. I just run the included bungee cord through the shoulder straps of my backpack and instantly I have a rolling camera bag. I always bungee cord it with the shoulder straps sticking outward. For day trips, this little guy is perfect when you’re on flat terrain. When I come across something difficult, just lift the whole thing up and use the shoulder straps like you normally would. You won’t even know the cart is still attached. When you’re back on flat land, take it off and start rolling again.

29. Strap holders. I use the ITW Web Dominators to keep the straps of my camera bag from whipping around in the wind. Here’s a nice Youtube vid on how they work: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iotKaP7lLTo

30. Handheld GPS like the Garmin Nuvi 57LM 5-Inch GPS Navigator if you’re headed to less populated areas. Remember snow, trees, and icebergs all start looking the same after a while. Phone reception is usually not possible so don’t think for an instant Google Maps on your phone is going to be reliable. Make sure you have updated maps for the region you’re travelling in. Don’t go to Asia with US maps loaded on it.

31. Earplugs and eyemask. Something you really want to keep in your bag just in case. You never know what sleep conditions are going to be like and a bad night’s rest is going to impact your photography. Some places in the far north and far south get much more daytime than other places during certain times of the year so you will have a hard time adjusting. I use the Flents Quiet Time Soft Comfort Ear Plugs and the Dream Essentials Sweet Dreams Lightweight Contoured Sleep Mask.

32. Multi-tool. I chose the very compact Topeak Hexus II Multi-tool. It has all the allen wrench sizes I need for my L bracket and base plates. MAKE SURE to keep this in your checked in baggage only or else it will probably be confiscated if you leave it in your carry on.

33. Print out maps of the whole area you’re shooting in. Topographic/satellite view and regular street maps off of Google Maps. Zoomed in and zoomed out versions. Because cell phone reception is non-existent in the middle of nowhere and digital devices can fail. Always know the lay of the land. Keep them in a waterproof map holder like the SealLine Map Case.

34. Waterproof laptop sleeve. In wet snowy weather, a cheap investment like the Aqua Quest Storm 15 100% Waterproof Laptop Case Dry Bag will go a long way. It comes in a 17″ model too for bigger laptops.

35. Small First Aid kit. It doesn’t have to be huge. I keep the Medique 40038 Pocket 38-Piece First Aid Kit in my bag along with some extra tablets I threw in like Advil, Pepto-Bismol, & Pepcid. Always be prepared, the nearest band-aid may be miles away.

36. Nalgene bottle or thermos. You have to stay hydrated and have plenty of snacks with you when you’re out in the field. Something slim that can fit on the side of your camera bag and easy to hold like the NALGENE Tritan OTG BPA-Free 24 Ounce Water Bottle will come in handy. I use a Nalgene 48-Ounce Silo Tritan Wide Mouth Water Bottle because it can hold 48 ounces and I like the wider opening for filling it. In the cold, water might start to freeze but that’s fine, these bottles will take it without cracking.

If you are in freezing temps and want to keep something warm to drink with you, I suggest the Thermos Vacuum Insulated 32 Ounce Compact Stainless Steel Beverage Bottle. I’ve used this Thermos all over the world and drinks will stay warm for hours even in freezing environments. A really good buy for the price.

I also use a Nalgene Cool Stuff Neoprene Sleeve Carrier for 32 Oz Bottles sometimes. It has a belt loop so I can attach it right to my hip.

37. Compact MP3 player and sports earbuds. The sound of wind slapping againt the side of your head might get tiresome after a while. You might want to take small cheap MP3 player with you for inspiration while you create your images. You’ll also want some kind of sports/active use earbuds so they stay put in your ears. I use the Sandisk 8GB Clip Jam MP3 Player and it also comes in an 8 GB model. I actually have two of these I use at the gym and rotate on a regular basis (one black, one royal blue). They have a microSD slot on the side so you pretty much have infinite storage which is why I have the cheaper 4 GB model. They charge off a mini USB cable so you can charge off a laptop if you need to and one charge lasts for 15 hours (trust me, it really does). They come in 7 colors and clip right onto your clothing.

I use the Philips SHS3200BK/37 Flexible Earhook Headphones with my Sansa Clip players. I like over the ear style earbuds that don’t move when I’m in the gym and they work just as well outdoors. I like these so much I have 3 pairs of these I keep at in my gym bag, home, and office.

After years of using these, the only time they don’t work too well is in super noisy areas like in airplanes. They don’t press down forming a seal to drown out the engine noise. It’s mainly designed this way for comfort reasons. If you try and press them into your ears, the sound is great but your ears will hurt after a while. So I keep these Sennheiser HD 202 II Professional Headphones in my carry on. These are very comfortable and form a nice tight seal around your ears. They don’t get too hot like some other brands out there either.

38. A gym sack bag. I covered the reasons for carrying a sack bag inside your camera bag in my Travelling internationally with photography gear and dealing with US Customs blog post. Make sure you don’t forget to pack one. I use a Under Armour Undeniable Sackpack but there are tons out there you can pick from. They’re all pretty much the same.

39. Travel/photographers vest. I also covered why you should use a photographers vest in my Travelling internationally with photography gear and dealing with US Customs post. I’ve tried Domke, Tamrac, Humvee, and Scottevest vests and ultimately settled on the Domke PhoTOGS Vest. The first 3 are nice but make you look like you’re on safari. The Scottevest is very low profile since all the pockets are inside the vest and it doesn’t scream photographer to thieves. But it couldn’t hold a gripped DSLR and is designed more for smaller consumer gadgets like iPads and GPS devices. The Domke had the biggest pockets out of the 4 I tried and can hold everything I throw at it. It comes in S, M, L, XL, and XXL. They advertise the color as khaki but it’s more faded olive drab in person. It’s a bit heavier and thicker than most vests. I wish they made it with more breathable material but it works very well to carry a ton of gear. Be very careful taking this with you because again, it is heavy and will add a lot of weight to your bag if you’re trying to keep within airline baggage weight limits.

40. International plug converter and travel size power strip. I use an Insten Universal World Wide Travel Charger Adapter Plug, White. All my camera, laptop, etc. chargers are dual voltage already (just read the label on them to be sure) so all I ever need is a plug converter. This one works everywhere in the world so I always keep it in my bag when I’m travelling.

I have the plug converter attached to the end of a Monster MP OTG400 BK Outlets To Go Power Strip with 4 AC Outlets. It allows me to connect up to 4 devices and trust me, you’ll use them because anything with batteries runs down quick in cold temperatures. I love the cord because sometimes outlets are behind nightstands or sofas and it’s hard to reach back there to plugin your devices.

41. Labelmaker. Something you shouldn’t take with you obviously. But you should have all your gear labeled with your name before leaving. Body, lenses, batteries, battery chargers, CF cards, whatever. If it’s valuable, it needs to have your name on it somewhere. I also label my batteries and memory cards as “A”, “B”, “C”, “D”etc. to stay organized. Having your name on your gear helps when you are shooting with other photographers and your gear gets moved around throughout the day. I can’t tell you the number of time I’ve plugged in a battery charger into a power strip only to come back an hour later and find others have done the same thing and they all look the same. Having my name on my charger has saved me more than once. I also label all my front and rear caps on my lenses with the lens mm size so it’s easy to see what’s in my bag and what cap goes where. Having your gear labeled also helps establish ownership if you’re ever questioned by Customs officials. They don’t want you to bring camera gear into their country for resale so if your gear looks like it’s yours, it will help your case. I have used the Dymo LetraTag Plus LT-100H Personal Label Maker for several years now and it’s still going strong.

42. Emergency contact sheet in all your luggage and with tour operator in the destination country if you are using one. I covered having all your documents (Passport copy, drivers license copy, medical records, itinerary, camera gear list with serial numbers, insurance policy, Custom form 4457, emergency contacts, etc) synced on Dropbox and in the Dropbox mobile app for your phone in my Travelling internationally with photography gear and dealing with US Customs post. Keep a USB flash drive with all these docs in one of your bags. I would encrypt the drive but if you want to make it easy to retrieve the contents on any PC you use and can’t download or install 3rd party encryption software to open it, I would recommend password protecting the files in a .zip file at the minimum. If it were to get lost, you don’t want someone finding it and stealing your identity using the documents.

43. I highly advise purchasing travel insurance before heading out. It covers you for everything during the trip including lost luggage, medical expenses, hotel mishaps, delays, missed flights, etc. I use Travelx but I’ve heard TravelGuard is equally as good. Having a life insurancy policy is also good and your family will appreciate it if something were to happen to you. GEICO, MetLife, Farmers, Statefarm, Nationwide, whatever…just call and get a quote. If you have your home and car insurance through one company they might cut you a deal if you get life insurance through them. Make sure your Will is up to date and your spouse or family has a copy of it. Remember these extremely cold places are usually in the middle of nowhere far from hospitals. Just keep that in the back of your mind and be safe out there. I even keep an app on my phone that can SMS my exact GPS coordinates to loved ones/tour operator if I get into trouble and have some kind of reception. Always be prepared for the worst.

44. Lastly don’t leave the country without insuring every piece of gear you intend to take. I’ve touched on this subject in my Travelling internationally with photography gear and dealing with US Customs blog post a while back. Keep the itemized list of your gear with serial numbers and a copy of your photography insurance policy on you at all times. Look into policies from PPA PhotoCare Plus or Hill & Usher Package Choice which are both very respected insurance providers in the photography industry. And make sure to get your US Customs Form 4457 documents I mentioned in my previous blog post stamped. I know it might be time consuming but it will save you from hassle and you only need to do it once.

PART 2: COLD WEATHER CLOTHING FOR PHOTOGRAPHY

Almost all the cold weather clothing I have chosen is for -20 degrees to 0 degrees Fahrenheit and usually has some kind of layer in between so I can remove the top layer for warmer days. Some of the pieces are rated in the -40 to -20 degrees Fahrenheit range as well. I feel buying gear in these ranges is the best for unpredictable weather in most places. Remember, in the middle of nowhere in freezing winds and ice, it is always better to have more clothing than less. You can always remove a layer if it gets warm but you can’t have Amazon ship something to you. Don’t be miserable. If you can’t tell if a particular piece of clothing is going to be sufficient for the weather you’re going to be in, don’t guess. Contact the manufacturer or go to your local outdoor store like REI and get an expert to help you pick out what you need. If you’re unfamiliar with layering, check out this Layering Guide. The other thing I want to point out is if you already own ski gear, it may not work for photography. Ski clothing is designed for “active sports”, so it uses all the extra body heat you generate. It traps and reflects it back at your body so it won’t usually be super warm article of clothing just by itself. It’s meant for being on the move and will prevent you from overheating. Photography is not an active sport, you’re going to be standing around for hours. So you need to get much warmer gear than you normally would for skiing. Stuff with the words “Ascent”, “Expedition”, “Touring”, “Summit”, “Arctic”, etc. in the name is usually the kind of stuff that is meant for this kind of activity. But always make sure to verify it is really rated for the temperature you intend to use it in, don’t just buy clothing based on a cool sounding name. Look for products with Gore-tex Pro if you can (not just regular Goretex). Here’s a comparision from Goretex’s website on regular, active, and pro: http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/outerwear-technologies#sec-outerwear-technologies

1. Waterproof hiking or PAC boots. Salomon Quest 4D 2 GTX Hiking Boots are good and waterproof but are not insulated like proper dedicated snow and winter boots are. I have used them for cold weather and light snow and they work great but I’ve never used them in arctic like conditions. I wanted something I could use in warmer weather too which is why I got these. You need ankle support on all terrain and these are excellent. The design is actually based off of a shoe so they are super comfortable and unlike any boots I have ever owned. Several military organizations use this same boot. They don’t really need to be broken in but anytime you buy new shoes, wear them for several days before heading out just in case. They come in 3 colors: olive drab (OD green), black/grey, and brown.

For the super cold trips with arctic like conditions, I use a PAC boot designed for ice (rubberized with a removable insulated liner). I like the Sorel Men’s Alpha Pac Extreme Snow Boot a lot. Very warm and the straps are very easy to manipulate so easy on and off. They are rated down to -60 degrees Fahrenheit. This is something you’ll want to switch into at your destination, they are too heavy and clunky to be worn during travel.

Now if you plan on standing around in freezing water or crossing streams, you want insulated rubber water proof boots that are knee high. Think rain boots, galoshes, or waders for fishing but insulated. These are 100% waterproof. Muckboots Arctic Sport Boots is an excellent pair and rated down to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. These are also not good for traveling to your destination. You’ll want to switch into them when you’re headed out for your trek.

2. Crampons for ice. Absolutely necessary for any icy areas you plan to shoot in. Kahtoola MICROspikes are the best bang for the buck but they are not true technical crampons. They are still surprisingly good even on hill climbs. And they’re small and lightweight so they pack very well. If you plan on actually climbing up the side of glaciers, you will need some actual technical crampons. Look into the steel Kahtoola KTS Steel Hiking Crampons. Don’t get the aluminum ones, the steel ones pack down better. I tried them out but ended up sticking with the Microspikes because it suited my needs better. Make sure to get the Kahtoola Microspikes Tote Sack or Kahtoola KTS Crampon Tote Sack for your crampons. They keep your clothes from getting torn up by the spikes in your bag.

3. Goretex Gaiters. I really like the Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles Gaiters. These are a bit stiffer and thicker than most gaiters out there because they are meant for expeditions but they keep the snow and water out very well. You want a nice high set of gaiters like these so snow and water doesn’t get over the top of your boots and seep in. They come in all black or black/red.

4. Wool cold weather socks. I use the Darn Tough Mountaineering Merino Wool Over The Calf Extra Cushion Socks. I love these socks! They are made of merino wool and have extra cushion so your feet don’t feel tired after trekking even for hours. A friend said he has switched from Smartwool to Darn Tough now because they last much longer and have a lifetime warranty so you can swap them out no questions asked. I can attest to that. Other options are Carhartt Men’s Arctic Wool Heavy Boot Socks which are 87% wool and have wonderful reviews on Amazon. An alternative that several of my friends that ski said are good are Smartwool Men’s PHD Ski Light Socks but again, these are people that are on the move telling me this so I didn’t want to risk it. I’m going to be sticking with the Darn Tough socks, they have proven themselves time and time again for me.

5. Wool hat. Your jacket should hopefully have a waterproof hood so your hat doesn’t have to be waterproof too but you’ll want something that is very warm and windproof. The Under Armour Tactical Arctic Beanie is nice for cold weather and even when your ears are covered you can hear just fine. It comes in several nice colors.

6. Neck gaiter & balaclava. Fleece and goretex is good because you want something warm, windproof, and somewhat waterproof. I chose not to get a scarf becaue I didn’t want to deal with it whipping around in the wind and catching on things. An Outdoor Research Wind Stopper Gorilla Balaclava is what I use and is very comfortable. Really, it looks like something out of Mummy movie but is super comfortable when you wear it. The face cover portions are velcroed so you can easily remove parts you don’t need or swing it open on one side to let air in when you need to without having to take it all off. An excellent well thought out design!

7. Gloves. They must be wind and waterproof. Something layered is best, an outer shell and an inner liner. Mittens keep your hands warmer than fingered gloves because cold air can’t pass through the middle of your fingers. When you need the dexterity for camera work, you wan to quickly pull them off or to the side and use the liner. A photographer friend recommended these Swany Norse Mitten Gloves he has used in below 0 weather. They have a zipper that allows you to get to the inner liner and use your fingers without having to pull off the mitten. I’ve been pretty impressed so far testing them out using my freezer but won’t be able to try them out in arctic like weather in the field till next year. They come in mens and womens versions. Really, I haven’t been able to find any other brand out there with this kind of zip setup for quick access to the inner liner.

For my “approach” I like a full fingered glove for dexterity and use the Freehands Men’s Soft Shell Gloves. I didn’t want to use ski gloves or snow boarding gloves because they are usually too bulky and have a curve built into the fingers but these gloves are actually very nice and don’t have any of those issues. These are waterproof and insulated and still have a great deal of dexterity. The index fingers pop off backward and is held down by magnets so you can use your camera or phone very easily when you need to be tactile. These provide great warmth except around the index fingers because of the design. In extreme cold I use these to get to my destination and then switch to the Swany gloves when I’m out standing in the snow.

8. Base layer top. I use the Under Armour Men’s UA Base 5.0 Scent Control Long Sleeve top for the base layer. Comes in mens and womens sizes. I’ve worn Under Armour Heat Gear products for many years and their cold weather gear is just as good.

9. Base layer bottom. I use the Under Armour Men’s UA Base 5.0 Scent Control Leggings to match the top. Comes in mens and womens sizes as well.

10. Mid layer top. I wear an Outdoor Research Men’s Radiant Light Zip Top. It comes in 6 colors and is very lightweight. Over that I like to wear fleece and go with a Mountain Hardwear Men’s Monkey Man Jacket. It comes in 5 colors this season but you can still find some of the older shades. It’s a really nice technical layer and keeps you very warm. The pocket comes in handy to store camera batteries close to the body and keep warm since in the cold batteries run down a lot faster. Over this in really cold weather I wear a Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor Jacket. It also comes in non-hooded model but I prefer having the hood for extra protection.

11. Mid layer bottom. This is where I deviate a bit. I find the UA Base 5.0 base layer to keep me pretty warm so instead of a mid layer fleece, I just use my Columbia Silver Ridge Convertible Pant. I have 3 pairs in different colors and travel all over in all kinds of weather in these pants because they are so comfortable and have secure pockets in all the right places exactly the way I like. I’m always stashing lens caps, filter rings, batteries, CF cards, etc. in them while shooting. They offer absolutely 0 insulation though. In really cold weather and for night photography I wear Mountain Hardwear Men’s Compressor Pants over the Columbia pants as my insulation layer. They have side zips all the way up the legs for ventilation if it gets too warm. I know Amazon doesn’t have too many reviews on these pants so check out Mountain Hardwear’s website for reviews. They really are just as warm as people described them to be and they compress down to nothing in your bag.

12. Outer layer insulated waterproof jacket with hood. I love Arc’teryx jackets because they are very functional and don’t look bulky like down jackets. The Arcteryx Fission SL Jacket is their top of the line Alpine jacket utilizing 2 layers of Gore-tex Pro and ThermaTek for lightweight insulation. It’s very pricey but will last a lifetime. True other brands like North Face, Columbia, Patagonia, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, etc. all make good jackets but if you’ve read the reviews and actually try Arc’teryx, you’ll see why they cost so much. If you really do a lot of cold weather work, it’s worth it in the long run. I figured I would use it all over the world and when it comes down to it, what part of your body needs to stay warm the most? Your core. So I figure a good jacket is as wise an investment as buying L glass.

I’ve looked at traditional 800 fill goose down parkas before but they were all too bulky. The Fission SL is something I can wear around town in the winter without looking like the Michelin Man. Living in Houston, I didn’t want to spend almost the same price on a down parka and just have it hang in my closet all year until the next time I have an extreme cold weather trip. Really good parkas are usually not very waterproof because at those altitudes, water is only in ice form and there is no need for waterproofing. You’d have to get a Goretex shell to go over your parka. The Fission SL is really combining the best of both. If you’re going high altitude, then get an expedition parka with down for sure and rated for that kind of weather. One thing I really don’t like about Arc’teryx is that they don’t weather rate their products. The Fission SL like most all Arc’teryx products is designed for climbing, hiking, and skiing. So don’t expect it to be the “ideal” jacket for photography where you won’t be generating a lot of body heat. But boy is it close to the warmth of a high end goose down parka. Try it and see for yourself. If you don’t like it, return it.

The other comparable Arcteryx jacket to this is the Arcteryx Fission SV (sever weather) Jacket which is warmer but it didn’t have pit zips so I stuck with the Fission SL (super light). The pit zips come in really handy when the weather warms up and you want to cool down a bit. The SV has 3 layers of Gore-tex Pro and uses Coreloft insulation so it is slightly bulkier. The Fission SL can pack down to nothing so it will fit in your bag easily where as the Fission SV won’t pack as tight. The cut on the Fission SL is more athletic vs. the Fission SV expedition cut which is longer. The Fission SV has 2 chest pockets which are handy while the Fission SL is just smooth. Again, I wanted to have something multipurpose and versatile for such an expensive investment so I chose the Fission SL jacket. If you really need the extra warmth and don’t mind the slightly bulkier look, go with the Fission SV. It’s about $50 cheaper too.

The Fission SL comes in black, orange, and blue this season. The Fission SL is Unisex but if you opt for the Fission SV, it comes in both mens and womens versions. Fission SV comes in black, nightshade (really cool color in person), dark olympus, and wheatgrass this season.

13. Outer layer insulated waterproof pants. I went with a pair of Arc’teryx Beta AR Pants. These are not insulated at all actually. They are a Goretex Pro waterproof shell with side zips for ventilation.

14. High visibility safety vest. In the snow, you want to be as visible as possible. I wear a Key Apparel Men’s Solid High Visibility Reflective Stripe Zip Vest over my outerwear since my outerwear is usually dark colored and doubles for city wear. It has two exterior pockets on the front and one on the inside in the chest area. It’s dirt cheap and packs down to nothing.

15. Adjustable belt. Get a good adjustable solid belt that is rated to hold some weight because who knows what you might strap on to it when you’re in the field. I like the 5.11 Tactical 1.5″ Double Duty TDU Belt which is a really nice reversible belt. The buckle is plastic and not metal so you don’t have to take it off when going through airports. You can get it in coyote/black or OD green/black. I have the coyote one and I love it. I wear it everyday now with jeans and shorts. Very comfortable and no break in period like some other stiffer belt options out there.

16. Watch with a very precise compass function and readable in the dark. I chose the Timex Men’s T49612 Expedition Trail Series Watch. Having a tiny regular compass on hand is good too because batteries can die and it won’t take up any room in your bag. I tried the Suunto Core Sport Watch in the “All Black” model but sold it because it ate batteries and was way too overkill for what I needed. But if you need the features and don’t mind changing the battery more often (easily done yourself) then I can definitely recommend the Suunto Core All Black. It’s a very slick watch in person. Casio G-shocks are good but were too pricey for my needs and I hated the back lights on them. They were all very dim. Timex’s Indiglo works great in the dark and is very readable because it is lit evenly.

17. Packing cubes for your clothes. These keeps things organized and saves a lot of space in your luggage. Once you start using them you’ll wonder how you ever traveled without them. I chose the eBags Packing Cubes 3pc Set which comes with a Small, Medium, and Large cube. They comes in many colors and I suggest you get a bright color so it stands out in your bag and in dimly lit hotel rooms. I usually use the rolled up taco method for packing my clothes in these. I suggest starting with a 3 piece set and try packing your clothes in the 3 different sizes. Then order more of a dedicated size to supplement your original 3. They have Small, Medium, and Large 3 piece sets. They also have a Shoe Bag and Shoe Sleeves which I really love. I would suggest buying a couple of extra Large cubes in a different color for used clothes. That way dirty laundry is kept separate from your clean clothes. I can’t say enough good things about the eBags cubes! Try them and see for yourself.

18. Compression bags. For the bulkier items like jackets and other outerwear, I use the Eagle Creek Travel Gear Pack-It Medium/Large Compression Sac Set. I compress it down and then stick in a packing cube. They have a lifetime warranty so you never have to worry about them breaking. They come in S, M, L, and XL.

19. Don’t forget your sunglasses. Polarized lenses with reflective coating is good. UV rays and snow glare is stuff you’ll have to watch out for, especially the higher you go. You don’t want to damage your eyes so get a good pair. I like Rayban, Maui Jim, and Oakley personally. There are also companies like Julbo that make specialized mountaineering glacier glasses and goggles but for me that’s overkill. You’ll want to go to the store and try different models on. It’s the only way to tell what will fit your face well and are comfortable for you.

I really like the fit of the Ray-Ban RB3467 Polarized Gunmetal Composite Sunglasses. They are billed as their “Active Lifestyle” or “Sporty Aviator”. Really nice in person, the pictures online don’t do them justice. I would consider these lifestyle sunglasses for every day use and not sports sunglasses. I probably wouldn’t recommend them in extreme weather and wind because they are a bit heavier and they don’t grip your head like a vice like most sports sunglasses do.

I think Maui Jim is going to be your best bet for polarized lenses as far as clarity, I haven’t found a brand that can touch them. They are super sharp lenses. And I’m not just saying that. I am really particular about stuff I use and I tested all 3 brands in different types of indoor and outdoor light for over an hour. The Maui Jim lenses win every time no matter the condition. Absolutely stunning clarity. The Maui Jim Banyans Polarized Sunglasses are an excellent pair that I can recommend. They are pretty lightweight too and are in the realm of sports sunglasses. The lenses come in 3 shades.

Oakleys are great if you are going to be really active and you need something lightweight that grabs onto your head and doesn’t move when running around or in huge gusts of wind. I love my Oakley Flak Jacket XLJ Polarized Sunglasses with Jet Black Frame and Black Iridium Polarized Lens for this reason. This is what I take in extreme cold weather when I know the place I’m going is very windy. They sit very close to the face and don’t fog up easily. The only negative is Oakley sunglasses scratch too easily. Really any plastic lens is going to but glass is heavy and typically you won’t find them in sports sunglasses. At least the lenses are replaceable so if you really bang them up you can always get new lenses (though prepare to open your wallet up because they aren’t cheap). Try the Black Iridium VR28 Polzarized Lenses with them if you can. It makes things have more contrast. Stuff in snow especially pops. They have a brownish red tint to them which is amazing outdoors. I use them all the time for sports in all kinds of weather. I think they have something like 15+ different lenses you can choose from for the Flak Jacket frames.

20. Hard shell sunglasses case. I use the very rugged Civilian POD Sunglasses Hard Case for Glasses for my Oakley Flak Jackets. You don’t want to invest in a good pair of sunglasses and have them crushed. Most of the hard shell cases out there are big and ugly. This case comes with a carabiner or you can use the snap on belt loops. It’s water repellent but I treated it with some NeverWet just in case. For my Raybans and other sunglasses I use the Nite Ize NGCL-03-01 Rugged Glasses Case which is a top loader and more convenient for day to day city life. It comes in 2 sizes, medium and large. I stick with the medium version and use an S carabiner with it.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I hope this list helps you decide on what you may want to buy for your trip. If you try and take all this gear with you along with your regular travel items, you’re probably going to be over the limit for most airlines. It’s up to you to decide what is absolutely necessary and what can stay at home. Do your research on your shooting locations and you should be fine.